Does NADA value really mean anything when buying a boat?

When buying a car I know that Blue book or NADA means quite a bit. It is generally accepted as a reference point in determining if that used car is worth it or not. That said I have been in the market for a small used boat for the family and I. I have run across quite a few boats that are 30 to 50% higher than their top NADA value. It would seem odd to me to pay extra for something that wasn't worth it but is this common in boats? If something would happen to the boat wouldn't the insurance just pay NADA value?





Also another question if you don't mind. What boats should I be looking at and which ones should I stay away from? I was talking to a dealer and he was probably the least pushiest salesman I've ever met. He told me to stay away from anything up to the mid 90's. He said prior to that a lot of manufacturers were just putting out junk that would float and people bought it. He said the newer stuff is put together better and would last longer. I actually gave his statements a lot of cred because he had two used boats in my price range and he basically told me they were no good (one was a Four Winns, I remember).


My criteria for a boat: -between $7-10,000


-can be open bow or cuddy (wife would prefer cuddy)


-will mainly be used for watersports with my children and friends


-will be used on inland lakes


-will probably dock it but do have a truck for trailering


Thank you for any help you can give me.|||Blue Book values are only a guideline of possible market place value, it's not the gospel for value. The boating industry has taken an awful hit the past few years, and the market is flooded with owners needing to get out of their payments, so that's why you'll see plenty of boats "Over Priced". The owners put down the minimums and financed for the longest periods possible to get the smallest payments. What this translates to is a lot of people "Upside Down" in their boats. You can try to make an offer for below the asking price, but expect to get a "NO". However, you may get a "Yes" too. Cliff has good advice and I think I know him from a past boat sale a decade ago. I got rid of that boat, but have new boats since then.





Since you really plan on using the boat for water sports, I'd say a Bow Rider is the better boat. You'll have more fun space to use rather than a Cuddy. Cuddy's are good for overnighting, but won't hold everybody in comfort. In that price range you'll find more deals for a Bow Rider style than on a Cuddy. There are some 23' Bow Riders with a "Porta-Potti" which is nice to have. The lighter the boat, the more fun it'll be. However, too light is dangerous. The lighter the vessel, the faster the launch for water skiing, wake boarding and tubing.





Some good brands are the likes of Malibu, Mastercraft, Sea Ray, Maxum, Regal, Cobalt, Monterey and Formula. Personally, I'd tell you to get something as new as possible. I always sell my boats when I hit the 12 year mark. That's when issues start to really pop up.





Engines and drive units are the most important components. Look at the prop and the out drive body ffor nicks and dings. That can give you an indication of how the boat was used, but not always. Be sure to have the boat inspected by a good boat dealer's shop. Drive the boat on the water. Ask for all of the past service records. If you can, ask the current owner for the shop that they regularly used and go there and inquire about it's past at the shop. The Service Manager may or may not give out that info, but it's a good way to find out about the boat and if the seller is hiding anything. Look at the hull yourself for "Spider" cracking and look at the front keel for "Beaching" damage. Look for stress cracking too.





Good Luck|||I am a licensed boat dealer. I can tell you that most dealers are buying their boats below nada low retail value. If you are looking at boats that are over the high retail, you are getting soaked-no pun intended.|||As far as I am concerned, it really means nothing. You really have to go by the condition and the hours and what the boat was used for.|||In today's market $ makes the difference make an offers.Nada only gives u an idea but not the true today's market.|||so go to nada as the low and actual cash value is what the owner wants/get it in between those two figures|||1. never buy a used boat without taking it to a qualified marine service shop and having a mechanical inspection performed.


this is like going to your doctor and getting a physical. its fairly quick and cheap, but it will give you a good idea of the overall condition of the boat and make buying a junker without realizing it nearly impossible.





2. demo it.


actually get it out on the water and actually drive it around. just like you would when buying a car.





if a boat passes both a real mechanics and your testing, its worth owning. if it doesnt or the seller is unwilling to let you test it out, you dont want it.





mid 90's, with most boats being made of fiberglass and wood, and the simple fact they dont last forever even when taken excellent care of, and in this economy, i wouldnt buy anything not made this century (2000 at the oldest).


30 years is a LONG life for a very well maintained average boat.





brands, there are basically two parts to any boat made by two different brands.


the hull itself. this includes most of the electronics and wiring, the interior and everything but the other part:


the motor and drive system. be it outboard, sterndrive or inboard/outboard, or inboard, the motor and drive is made seperately and mated with the hull at the factory that makes the hull.





lots of brands out there in both catergories.


mercury/mercruiser, has the reputation as being #1, the best on the water. their excellent warranty is a large reason why.





hull, how the wiring is done is the biggest difference i've seen in most boats.


one thing i've learned to look for and avoid, scotch lock wiring connectors.


http://www.google.com/search?q=scotch+lo鈥?/a>





scotch lock connectors are very quick and easy to install, with no tools needed. they are very prone to loose connections and corrosion.


butt connectors (there is one shown in that link) make a mroe solid and reliable connection.


and teh best is heat shrink butt connectors, as they can be made to seal tightly against the insulation and block out corrosion causing moisture.





look at how its wired. the better its wired, the better everything else is built.








open bow and cuddy, is very much a matter of personal choice. i have found a nice open bow or bowrider layout on a small sterndrive boat makes teh best multi purpose boat. plenty of room for passengers to just cruise, plenty of room to spread out and fish, and very capable of pulling water toys.





watersports, i'd highly suggest a boat with a factory installed ski tower. if water sports includes skiing or wakeboarding, a ski tower will make getting up much easier, especially for beginners. ski towers pull UP since they are so much higher then the water, typical back of the boat attachement just pulls forward, and maybe down a little as the boat accelrates.


the upward pull also makes it easier to catch some air on other toys, like my favorite, kneeboards.


i emphasize factory installed becuase unless the hull is built to withstand the weight and force put on it by a ski tower it wont stay attached.





most any boat can be used in salt waters, just make sure to fully rinse everything and flush the motor with fresh water afterwards.





leaving it in the water, i wouldnt. its often more expensive to do so then to leave it on teh trailer at teh same places. and you then have greater build up of algea and what not on the hull, slowing you down and sucking up gas.


and you need to ensure the battery stays full and able to operate the bigle pump, which must have auto on.|||In the last 2-3 years the NADA has been of little use because of the economy, particularly in your price range. The market is flooded with nice boats, it just takes a lot of hard work to find the best one for you.


You should be able to get 25% more boat for the money than just 3 years ago.





You should be looking in the 25 ft. range and it's all about the engine. a test ride of at least 30 min at cruise speed and careful inspection should tell a lot.





As for makes there are good buys in all makes. There are a lot of Sea Rays on the market, but I'd narrow my choices as I looked at boats that might fit my needs.